**Continued from yesterday’s post…**
After we dropped off the first set of teachers, Garrett and I walked around for a bit. We mostly wanted to go back and see a set of cufflinks Garrett had spied in a window of an antique shop. They were 18k gold red foxes – almost exactly like what the high-art/jewelry version of the Diavolo logo would look like. He and I stalked the store until it opened around noon, and went in and asked about the cufflinks, wanting to get them as a gift for Jacques. What were thinking in terms of price was way (WAY) off, and they turned out to be about $900. She dropped it to $695 when we talked to her a bit more and told her who we wanted them for, etc, but it was still too steep and we left thinking maybe we might be able to get all 14 of us to pitch in…
Garrett had to be at the hotel for his Pas-Sages pick up (the traveling kids show,) and so I met John in the lobby so we could walk around together. He hadn’t eaten yet, so I took him to the same place we had had breakfast. We had a wonderful lunch – he is so great to talk to one on one, I love John. He makes me feel better about a lot of things, and inspired about everything else. After we walked around the streets and the small shops a bit, before heading back to meet up with all the people who were now getting back from teaching their master class at Tulane University. We all met up, changed and headed out in a pack, picking up people as we got ahold of them, trying to find a place to eat. We finally found an amazing little bar and restaurant called Chartres House Café.
We all sat down and everyone ordered drinks, except me. A little bit later, our amazingly fun and intuitive waiter, Dan, came over and handed me a free shot, of caramel vodka, chilled to 5 degrees… it was pretty amazing, so I ordered more of that, on the rocks, to go with with my chicken strip sammich. He read me well, and he knew it. It was awesome.
After dinner, we all headed back to our respective homes. The plan was to get changed and go out again right away, but then Becca and I discovered Renee’s bed, and the TV she has in her room… and we promptly fell asleep watching ‘That 70’s Show.’ When we woke up, we noticed that the one episode of Project Runway we had missed while we were in North Carolina was going to be on later that night, and all plans were quickly changed to accommodate all-important TV needs. We really are that sad. No, more so, we really were that tired. Sometime during that night o’ TV on Renee’s bed, John came over to join in, and everyone else wandered in and out in between bar and food runs.
–Tuesday: 1-24-2006
When we got here, Suzanne said we wouldn’t even begin to understand the destruction of Hurricane Katrina until we saw the areas to which we would be traveling on Tuesday. That having been said, we all got up at met together for internet and coffee at CC’s, then breakfast at the same River’s Edge restaurant we had eaten at the morning before. Then we all headed over to the hotel to meet our Van driver and Suzanne to drive about a half an hour away to the lower ninth ward area/St. Bernard Parish.
That day was just almost too much. More than anything it just makes me so grateful to have what I have and to have never experienced anything like that. I couldn’t help but feel just plain guilty, like survivor’s guilt or something, even though I was no where near the storm. Now, my mood has changed and the city feels so awful, and it isn’t and it didn’t before, but now it’s like I’m literally feeling and absorbing this pervasive sadness that is all over the place, instead of just seeing it.
Everything we passed on the way out of the French Quarter was pretty much like how I’ve described the French Quarter itself before: run down but not destroyed. But then, the situation rapidly changed. In the downtown area, stacked up under the freeway were piles of cars that had been towed there, unable to run, having been flooded out. The cars were somewhat unrecognizable. Many were crushed and mangled, and the majority were missing tires or doors or hoods. All of them were covered in a pattern of rings: like the lines on jupiter, documenting the slow recession of the level of the flood waters as they sat depositing minerals and eroding away the paint and polish. The businesses went from simply declaring “OPEN” or “CLOSED,” meaning for good, not for the day, to no longer having signs or windows or roofs. Then we crossed over a major drawbridge (the name of which I am unaware,) and there was nothing. No recognizable structures. A barge in the middle of a neighborhood. Splinters of wood and rubble and concrete everywhere.
This is going to be one of those things that I’ll just have to leave to pictures, because for it, there can never be words. More than anything, I was struck by an overwhelming feeling, heavy and burdensome and completely gray. I don’t think it has yet left me three days later.
We were going into this area, where the water completely covered the houses, and in which every structure was uninhabitable in order to teach the kids who somehow manage to live within it’s boundaries. In the parking lots of major buildings are row after row of white trailers, now the home to displaced residents. FEMA finally agreed to pay for those for the county, but only two days before they were about to be repossessed because no money had come in from the government for the county. That was about two weeks ago. All of the major stores and chains, like Burger King, McDonald’s and Popeyes had boards over the windows and had made no effort to reconstruct. Of all the things in this area that could bounce back, the huge corporations, even those were too far gone.
The school we were teaching at has been renamed since the storm, it’s now the St. Bernard Parish Unified school. It is the only school open in the entire county. It houses all 1600 K-12 graders that are in the area now, which is up from 300 in November. The school itself was flooded up to the middle of the second floor once, and when we walked in, we could see the line on the wall at the level the water had reached. The floors were all covered in a thin silt, a dirt so fine it was like powdered sugar, and it covered most everything.
There were two Pas-Sages shows, and then John and I taught a Diavolo technique class to the after-school Ballet program kids. The girls were amazing. I was unprepared for how normal they seemed. Their happiness and candor really just augmented how awful the situation was, because for some reason, I was unable to understand how they could be so positive. I guess, what I’m trying to say, is that more than anything, getting to be with the happiness in those kids was even more melancholy than seeing their surroundings because it just highlighted everything that was so wrong. After the class, we had to rush out because there is still a 6pm curfew in that Parish (county – napoleonic code here.) Anyone caught outside their residencies after six is arrested. The drive back at dusk was even more haunting than the ride over in sunlight. That dark gray ashy feeling cemented itself even further.
Now, that I saw all that, I really can’t shake it. Across the street from where I am staying is an X on the wall – just like on all the houses we saw mutilated by winds and flooding that day – each structure had to be searched, one at a time, for survivors or bodies. On the top of the X is the date they came, on the left is the team that did the search, the right is the number of dead animals (pets) and the bottom is the number of dead people. The french quarter where we are wasn’t that badly hit… and coming home that day, I noticed for the first time an X on the door across from ours and there is a 2 for people and a “3 – cats” and suddenly, my home here, the one place in the city that’s been so carefree and my little safe place from all the scariness, has been ruined because now I walk out the door and see death, again. It makes me want to come home so, so badly.
When we got back, after a mostly silent ride home, we were all anxious to pretend to feel better and have fun. John, Becca and I changed into normal clothes and walked to Bourbon street and bought pizza for dinner. We were supposed to meet Monica and her boyfriend Jarod, who flew in to visit, at a VooDoo shop for a Haunted History French quarter ghost and haunted places tour, but we were all feeling a little too morbid already, and opted out. After a random Gyro stop (yes, about 15 minutes after we’d already just eaten,) we changed our plans to go meet some others at a magic club and bar on the corner of Esplanade and Decateur.
This magic shop, it turns out, is owned and operated by none other than Harry Anderson, the judge from “Nightcourt.” It was pretty weird to walk in and see a familiar TV face. The night was set up that there were tables all over and various magicians would have a small group watching their tricks and we could migrate and stare and be impressed. It was crazy awesome, I never expected to have as much fun as I did.
In the middle of our time there, Becca, Crystal and I were getting drinks at the bar when Harry Anderson approached us, and asked us our interest in magic. I stuttered out something about the magic tricks my Grandpa had shown me when I was little, and how I loved the illusions. He told us he’d come find us in a bit… none of us really knew what that meant. Wandering back into the main room, we saw him onstage doing one of two bits for the night. After his show, he came over and pulled up a chair to our table, and showed us three awesome (AWESOME) tricks. He let us buy the ones we wanted, so now I will always have a magic trick in my wallet… ta-da!
Just to had it be said, he is a pretty awesome guy. When a lot of the patrons had left, he and I and a couple of other Diavolo-ites sat talking about our favorite graphic novels and the new politics of New Orleans. I am going to keep an eye out for a certain big corporation to try and buy this whole place…
After the bulk of “magician’s night” had ended at Oswald’s, we were invited by a couple of the more enjoyable magicians and their friends to a hookah bar that was a couple of doors away. Mike, and David two new friends, were much fun, and are going to try and come see our show in Lafayette even. We stayed at the hookah bar until it closed learning our tricks, seeing more of Mike’s antics and generally have low-key fun. By the time we were leaving, we were hungry enough to extend the night further and those us us who were left (Evan, Becca, Mike, David, and I) went to another bar, Check Point Charley’s, next door. This one was an all-night bar, was still serving food, and was in the middle of open-mic night. We hung around for quite awhile, and after a few more drinks, Benji even got up the courage to borrow someone’s guitar and go up on stage and sing a Bob Dylan song. He did a great job. Props, Benji.
We finally pooped out about 3am, and Mai, one of Mike’s friends who had joined us, drove us to our homes and we called it a night.
–Wednesday: 1-25-2006
Wednesday morning we all got up and headed to the coffee shop down the street from our house, CC’s, where I’ve been able to check my email. I got a bagel and a smoothie and had a nice and cathartic internet session, finally being able to figure out my moving-out of LA apartment situation and some bills. I had to once again teach that day, so after breakfast, we made haste to squeeze in some shopping and lunch before I had to meet Leo, my fellow teacher for the day, at the hotel. We stopped into an antique shop where I bought myself a perfume locket for a souvenir. For me, New Orleans is like Korea, in that I am not checking my spending as much as I usually do, because I think it’s important I pump as much money into the local economy as possible.
Lunch was at Café Mesparo, the first reasonably priced full meal I’ve had since I’ve been here… usually I can spend about $10-15 of my per diem a day for all my meals. On some days, the theater provides food, and I eat a continental breakfast , so I spend no money. Here, the average is $30-60, and all my frugalness is effing wasted. Oh well, I guess. It’s been damn good food. I had another local favorite, a Muffaletta – mom, this is a dish for you – a baguette with salami and ham (I subbed turkey) and melted swiss cheese, covered in an olive-salad, which is made of everything yummy. It’s definitely a recipe I’m going to have to recreate somehow.
After lunch, Becca walked me to the hotel, where I met up with Sir Leo to head out to teach two classes.
We were at a school about a half an hour away. Our first class was about 10 adorable 6-year olds who came prepared in black leotards and pink tights. They girls were very into our class and loved every minute of it, for what I could tell. They were, however, quite clingy, and there was more than one occasion when I needed to explain that I needed my hands back in order to teach, or I couldn’t demonstrate with three girls holding onto my legs for dear life.
The second class was about 10 thirteen year olds, and at first I thought that I was going to have a group of too-cool-for-schoolers, but they warmed up perfectly and we had a really great class. The only snafu was that I got a black eye. During our last exercise, Leo and I were catching the dancers and one girl decided to have a freak out (the scared kind) and she full of clocked me in the face with her elbow. I left the room as collectedly as possible, and headed to the bathroom with Suzanne in tow. She went to get me ice while I surveyed the damage: really swollen, really red, kinda bloody. I cleaned up in about 30 seconds and ran back to the room – I really, really didn’t want the kids to think anything too terrible had gone wrong. So I marched back in and told a while lie about how I had been hit, but not badly, and that all it did was knock my contact out, hence my jog to the bathroom.
Their fears seemed satiated a little bit after that, and we only had about three minutes of class left at that point. After they had all left, I let the impact sink it, and I will say, even though I sound dramatic, it truthfully hurt worse than anything has in a long time. I think this is too, because of the location, and that when I am used to dealing with high levels of pain it is all internal, things that I can grip to hold or curl up for… this was just throbbing agony, and I couldn’t touch it. The air hurt it. Thinking hurt.
We headed home, me with a surgical glove filled with ice on my face, and headed back to the hotel. Becca met me there, and we walked to our home so I could get changed and we could regroup to go out later.
When we showed up, the man who owns the house where we’ve been staying was finally there. He is a jovial, extremely intelligent, generous and fun man, with an amazing collection of art and a constantly thinking mind. He came out on his upper balcony to greet us, and he invited us in for dinner and a tour of his house – which, as I have mentioned before, is a thousand times more incredible than one could ever imagine having seen it from the outside. While we were eating he served us wine and gin and tonics and told us a bit about himself. I liked to pick his brain because he is an environmental law attorney. He saw my nose, freshly swollen, and declared it broken. (I have an appointment with my nose/sinus MD when I get back to Seattle mid-February.) After eating well, Becca and I headed downstairs to take advantage of Renee’s kindness in letting us use her bedroom as our link to TV bliss. For the next two hours, Becca and I watched Lost and Project Runway – necessities – and I continued to lick my wounds and take pain meds.
After good TV, we all had a date with Mike, the magician from the night before. The Ghost tour we had decided against the night before when we instead went to the magic bar was now going to happen, under very special circumstances. Mike had been one of the ghost tour leader for years, and he agreed the night before to take Becca and I and our friends on the tour late at night (against city ordinance, apparently – no guided tours past 10. However, had we been a marauding bachlorette party of a drunken 30 people, no problem there…) So, we got together as many people as we could and met him in front of the chapel by Jackson square for our unofficial, friend-led tour.
It was super fun, and spooky, and probably to be taken with a grain of salt, but worth it, especially since Mike gave us the tour for 1/3 of the price we would have had to of paid. After the tour, which included lengthily stops at two “haunted” bars – The Absinthe house on pirate’s alley and LaFitte’s Blacksmith shop on Bourbon street – we headed to Coop’s for a little food. We hung out there for an inordinate amount if time, and one by one people went home until it was just me, Becca, John and Mike left. We stopped in a couple of bars on the walk home, I just sat, throbbing, and I finally got home safe and sound at about 4am.